With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors, recounts his remarkable journey of discovery-of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.
Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave-that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder-in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords listeners vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
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"Narrator Mike Chamberlain gives a staid performance of this memoir about writer Peter Heller's introduction to surfing in his 40s, an undertaking that eventually led him to devote a full year to his quest to become an adept surfer. Heller meets a lot of colorful characters when he and his girlfriend, Kim, take off in a converted van to spend a year along the Pacific Coast in California and Mexico. Chamberlain gives each character an accent or slight change in tone. But the focus is always on the story itself, which explores Heller's journey while also delving into the history of surfing, environmental issues, the nature of obsession, and finding meaning in life. A.F. © AudioFile 2016, Portland, Maine"
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